Quito’s Historical District

Today we wandered Quito’s Historical District. I loved the architecture, palm trees, and ladies in their traditional hats, shawls and skirts, and Elise oohed and ahhed over the dogs, cats and even pigeons. We bought a bracelet from a young couple trying to raise money to take their kitten to the vet, and then looked at the indigenous art on display in the catacombs of Plaza de San Francisco. Elise was on a mission to find a tiny lama to add to her traveling toy collection, and tirelessly darted in and out of shops. She ended up deciding on a minature nativity set that included a leopard, guinea pig, Baby Jesus on a banana leaf, and an incongruently topless Mary, sold by a friendly Grandma who was having her hair dyed while she tended her shop.

Although Elise was upbeat and carefree, I was very nervous about theft and getting separated from Elise, burdened by my unfamiliar pack/camera case/money wallet, frustrated by my new phone, and jet lagged and out-of-breath given Quito’s high altitude. It was confusing because it was completely unlike my experience traveling through Greece with Elise last summer and I wondered if I had embarked upon something too challenging. I even had a moment or two of wanting to crawl back to my friend My-Linh’s place in Berlin and curl up in a ball. Alas, it would take a little while to find my travel mojo again.

Celebrating Elise’s Dad in Quito, Eduador


On our first day in Quito, after a breakfast of papaya, pancakes, and guava juice in the historical district, we visited Elise’s Dad’s school, Academia Cotopaxi. A member of the staff, Alejandra Morales, kindly gave us a tour of the grounds (rebuilt since Mark was there) and let us look through the yearbooks. My hope was to show Elise a photo of her Dad as a 5 or 6 year-old, but the earlier yearbooks were not complete. Still, it was good for her to get a sense of the environment he experienced as a young boy. As our visit coincided with what would have been his 56th birthday, we toasted him over a meal at Vista Hermosa in Parque ItchimbĂ­a, which, true to its name, had fabulous views of all of Quito. We especially loved the Madonna/angel statue atop El Panecillo, a rounded 200-metre-high hill. Locals apparently claim that their Madonna is the only one in the world with wings like an angel. It was fitting to discover her on this special day.